![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZhmbQokgKIzLVlqkb__UqAnC1TDvzp4OScc_pNOx7ufFru98v_Ns0wyCCLp4dOFCNjJT77nYjKGmVxaBJv0VNizpdLfcMzKI11bJST5d2DelGQEzQo-Gs9Ji7QgRHrx-8CIiTY08mVxX/s400/Picture+5.png)
Scratch off the appetizers and entrees that are most like dishes you’ve seen in many other restaurants, because they represent this one at its most dutiful, conservative and profit-minded. The chef’s heart isn’t in them.
Scratch off the dishes that look the most aggressively fanciful. The chef’s vanity — possibly too much of it — spawned these.
Then scratch off anything that mentions truffle oil.
Choose among the remaining dishes.
-Frank Bruni, New York Times
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